A small-ship cruise to Canada’s wildest places

Grizzlies snacking on the shoreline, orcas and dolphins — the inlets around Vancouver Island are magical.

The call from the captain echoes down from the wheelhouse: “Humpback, starboard, three o’clock.” Then a gasp: “It’s breaching!” I scramble on deck to watch the final plume of sunlit spray fall to the ocean. Gone. The inky-blue water betrays nothing of the enormous creatures lurking beneath. Mountains roll across the horizon into a backdrop of lingering mist.

I’m sailing between the forested outcrops that link the western edge of mainland Canada with Vancouver Island aboard the 68ft Island Odyssey, once owned by the president of the Bank of Venezuela. Now she’s part of a fleet belonging to the intrepid cruise operator Bluewater Adventures.

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